Lago di Garda Revisited

We returned to Hotel Marconi after spending quality time there 4 years ago.  Approaching the castle and crossing the drawbridge can be a challenge but, thanks to our GPS, it was easy.  In spite of the continuous downpour, the area and the hotel were as beautiful as we remembered.

The Hotel is run by the charming Famiglia Visani.  Besides the first rate service and accommodations, the breakfast is the most outstanding part of the stay. The pastries are by the father who was a baker before retirement.

Piemonte South

Since we would be driving through Piemonte on our way to Lago di Garda and needed a place to stay for the night, we picked up the B & B guide at the Piemonte info booth at Salone.  Our choice was Casa Fonte Volpe in Castelletto D’Orba, a village nestled in low mountains with a stream running alongside the B & B.

It was still early in the afternoon and the restaurants were soon to close so we stopped at Ristorante Enoteca Il Moro in Capriata D’Orba for lunch.  Sunday is family day in the restaurants and the main dining rooms were filled so they seated us in the Enoteca part.

We ordered local specialties: I Nostri Agnolotti, nei tre modi della tradizione, a culo nudo – nel Vino – al Tocco (House pasta, 3 ways: without sauce, with sauce and soaked in wine)

Guancino e polenta (Beef cheek sliced served with polenta).  A lovely lunch!

We discovered that the B & B owners were dining at the same restaurant - we were introduced to them – what a coincidence! 

The B & B was a charming reconstruction.  Sandra had 3 books of before and after photos.  The husband, a psychiatrist specializing in forensics, fixed us breakfast the next morning.  We drove to Sirmione and Lago di Garda in a downpour.

Salone del Gusto Highlights

We had a most delighful lunch on the floor of Salone del Gusto at a Campania restaurant offering a single price menu with wine for 10 € 

Pranzo in Caserta, Campania Menu:

Panella aversana, salumi bufala assortiti

Pasta con ragu di bufala

Bocconcini di carne bufalina con mela annurca

Degustazione di prodottti biologici

Casatiello casertano

Terra Madre 4

Slow Food USA delegates attending Terra Madre are assigned living quarters that vary from a campus 1-1/2 hours drive away, hotel rooms, homestays and my assignment, Campus Riberi, a military installation.  Reading about it, I was apprehensive, but pleasantly surprised when I arrived.  My single room was en suite and very comfortable.  Breakfast was served in the barracks’ dining area and the croissants, fruit and caffé latte were tasty.

The rest of our meals were in the Terra Madre canteen and included a wide variety of Piemontese specialties served buffet style.

After attending several Terra Madre workshops today we’re off to B & B Casa Fonte Volpe in Castelletto D’Orba, south Piemonte.

Carlos and Me

USA Regional Meeting, 10 am – Oval Lingotto, E (The Highlight of Terra Madre)

Aware that both Carlo Petrini and Alice Waters would be speaking, Rob and I settled ourselves on the front row with cameras, pen and paper.  Alice arrived with a bouquet of celery, Carlo with an interpreter.

Josh Viertel, Slow Food USA’s President, welcomed the 700 people from 50 states and spoke of his background leading up to his presidency.  He  introduced Alice Waters who inspired the group to bring Terra Madre USA to the mall in Washington D.C.  Next was Carlo Petrini, the inspiration and creator of Slow Food, who applauded the USA delegation and the work that has been done.  He also encouraged involvement in his Thousand Gardens in Africa project.  Slow Food Tucson’s partnership with the Najati Farming Association in Malawi is a response to this. 

Terra Madre Day 2

Drove around 1½ hours in search of a parking place (che disastro!).  Finally, slipped into a tight opening in front of a Farmacia, no blue line so we’re good for the day.

Our first introduction to Salone del Gusto – unbelievable!  Recommendation was, ‘Go on Friday because Saturday and Sunday are wall to wall people!’  Well, Friday looked like wall to wall to us, but we forged on, tasting olive oil, artichoke spread, olives, bread, grappa, salami, etc.  The Italian hall is divided into regions.  We started in Campania and spotted an inviting mini restaurant featuring a different menu each day - Cost, 10 euros pp, including wine pairings.  We reserved for noon on Saturday.

Heading in the direction of Terra Madre, we stopped in the food tasting court - Rob waited in line for 2 beers; I, for spinach pasta.  We met up and shared.

After attending a Terra Madre workshop on Sustainable Education we headed to the Canteen provided for Chapter leaders and staff.  This is where we met Mazoe Gondwe from Malawi.  She and 3 other women are representing the Njati Farming Association.  With a shared interest in peppers and on behalf of Slow Food Tucson, we agreed to set up an exchange with them, sharing seeds and ideas.  She introduced us to some of their products such as;  Zillie’s Chillies (Roast Garlic & Red Onion and Maya Fruity) and Malawi Aromatic Rice.  We exchanged addresses and took pictures.  I’m very excited and see a real opportunity here!

Terra Madre Day 1

The Terra Madre Opening Ceremony at Palasport Olimpico Isozaki (also called Palaisozaki) was to begin at 2:30 pm.  Our 10:30 am arrival at Milano Malpensa airport left us plenty of time. Update - the opening ceremony was delayed until 4 pm.

I opted out of the scheduled transportation to my housing to stay with Rob to pick up his Hertz rental and drive the 1½ hours to Torino.  He checked in at Campeggio Villa Rey, then set the GPS to our final destination.  Yes, it easily found the destination but did it find us a parking place?  No, this is Italy!  Straddling a median with only inches between 2 cars our arrival time was ½ hour late, no problem.

After registering for Terra Madre, we sought recommendations for authentic Piemontese restaurants – first things first, right?  3 charming Italian volunteers took this on as a challenge and 20 minutes later had us scheduled for dinner at Brandé for 7:45.  This gave us time to check me in at the Campus Riberi (more about that later).

Brandé was more elegant/expensive than we like but it was authentic tastes of the Piemonte region.  Appetizer: local beef 3 ways, tartare, carpaccio (filled with forest berries & arugula) and minced mini burger on pureed potatoes; fresh veggies served with 3 kinds of fish. 

-The Primi or pasta course was tagliatelli with ragù sauce  Ravioli with gorgonzola, basil and butter sauce.

Welcome to Piemonte!  

Visit to Jaime's

Second day – started the morning at our hotel with a continental English breakfast; tea, coffee, choice of egg, boiled (hard, medium or soft) or fried, toast and cereal. A full English breakfast has all the aforementioned plus; grilled tomato, sausages or bacon, sautéed mushrooms and sometimes baked beans.  Difference in hotel’s charge between continental and full breakfast - £10 more per person plus way higher in calories.  Easy choice!

Next we packed up everything and moved from the 5^th floor (No Lift!!) to the basement.  A necessary move! Kept thinking about Stieg Larson, Girl with the Dragon Tattoo, dying of a heart attack after running up ? floors and 20 + years Rob’s junior.  Don’t want to risk Rob missing out on Terra Madre and Salone.

THEN off to Jaime’s Italian restaurant in Covent Garden which totally lived up to our expectations.  Shared 1 Meat Antipasti Plank – Tuscan fennel salami, pecorino with chilli jam, assorted olives and shaved root veg with chilli, lemon and mint among other tastes.  Next, 2 specials to share - 3 roasted red mullets in tomato sauce and spaghetti with mussels in wine sauce, and a rocket (arugula) and radicchio salad, all unique and delicious with a bottle of organic Sangiovese.  £43 Great thing about Jaime’s is that all pasta is made in-house, and ½ portions are available.

Ended the day at Carluccio’s Caffé in Covent Garden with a Bicerin, a traditional drink from Torino – espresso coffee, Florentine drinking chocolate and cream.  Served in small jugs for you to mix yourself.  If this is a portent of what to expect in Torino, Wow, I’m ready!   

First Day in London

First day of our adventure started with a great Sunday Roast thanks to the book, Savoir Fare LONDON, Stylish Dining for under $25.00, by Elaine Louie of the NYTimes.  Divided into chapters by area, West London, where our hotel is located, a 10 minute walk away was The Thomas Cubitt, at 44 Elizabeth Street, a gastropub named after a leading master builder in London (1788-1855).   

We started out with a Pimm’s & Lemonade, delicious and fresh.  Rob ordered the Roast 28 day dry aged Castle of Mey Estate sirloin, Yorkshire pudding; Judith, the Roast Kilravock lamb leg, mint sauce.  A glass of Tempranillo each and we were in heaven.  Will definitely return to try out other offerings. The bill was £57.

cubitthouse.co.uk or email reservations@thethomascubitt.co.uk

Gourmet Travelers - Terra Madre 2010

This blog was started as an adventure in progress. Our destination is Torino, Italy to attend Terra Madre 2010 (Judith as delegate, Rob as observer) which coincides with the international Slow Food's Salone del Gusto, Oct. 21 - 25.


But, before and after, we will be visiting places along the way and would like to share our old favorites and new discoveries with you.  Our stops will include London, Lago di Garda, Venice and the Cinque Terre. We'd also like to hear from you with recommendations to include foods, drinks, sights and places to visit.


Our hope is that this blog will enrich the Gourmet Travelers experience.